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Chapter 6

Sail: Wing: Box: Smiling Face

The Sail Kite

This kite shows the influence of the box kite in its structure. It is in two parts; one being in the form of a triangle; the other in the form of a sail. It is designed to achieve steady flight in different weather conditions, and should be capable of attaining to a good height quickly. It is robust in construction to withstand the normal wear and tear of flying and handling.

The first stage is to make the crossbars, A and B. They are formed from 1/4 in. square stripwood. A is 2 ft. 6 in. in length, and B is 1 ft. 8 in. The ends are grooved, as shown at C (Fig. 17). Next, make the two longerons, D and E. These are each 2 ft. 6 in. in length, and are cut from stripwood, 3/8 in. square. Groove them at the ends, as at C.

Assemble the four pieces to form a framework. Lay the longerons on top of the crossbars, and join together with glue and | in. fretwork nails. Bend the ends of these over and hammer flat. Before nailing, part drill through the wood to prevent it splitting. Inject a little light machine oil into the holes as a further safeguard. See Fig. 17 for the measurements relating to the assembly of the framework. Now bind round the joints with fine string. This frame must be really firm, so that it will keep its correct shape in flight.

Proceed by making the triangular framework. A third longeron, F, which is 2 ft. 6 in. in length is cut from 1/4 in. square stripwood. Two upright struts, G and H, are also needed. Cut them from 1/4 in. square stripwood, and make them 97/8 in. in length. Cut a V-shaped groove at one end of each, to a depth of 1/8 in. to act as a cradle for the top longeron. Bind round the struts with strong thread just below the V-shapes. This will prevent them splitting during flight. Now smooth every part with fine sandpaper, and apply a coat of clear varnish, after which the frame pieces may be enamelled, if desired.

Next, brace the sail frame. Bind round and tie a length of fine string to the right-hand end of the top crossbar, leaving a 5 in. tail where it is knotted. Take the string round the edges of the frame to form an outline for the sail. Complete the bracing by tying to the tail at the first knot. The bracing must be taut in order to provide a firm support for the sail. When you are satisfied that this has been achieved, stick strips of insulating tape over the ends of the frame. They will keep the string in place and prevent the wood from splitting.

Fig. 17. Sail

Use cambric or very fine calico for the sail. Pin the material to a board. Lay the framework upon it, and with a soft-grade pencil, mark the shape. Add a margin of 1 in. all round. The cover may be decorated at this stage. Use fabric painting oil colours. The design should be simple and bold, for example, it might be a large centre circle or diamond-shape, with the surround edged with the same colour; or one's initials, in the form of a monogram could be painted on. When the paint is dry, cut out the cover.

The method of securing the cover to its frame is as follows. Roll the material on to a 3 ft. length of 1/2 in. diameter dowelling. By doing this, the cover can be stretched evenly as it is being attached. Fasten the cover to the top of the two longerons, D and E, by means of fretwork nails. Place small cardboard strips between the material and the nail heads. Roll the cover down and fasten in the same way to the ends of the top crossbar. Next, keeping it as firmly stretched as possible, fasten at the ends of the bottom crossbar, and lastly, to the bottom ends of the longerons. A better way, instead of using nails, would be to use 1/4 in. round-headed fine brass screws, with small washers, which may be cut from tin or obtained from model-makers' shops. Drill holes part way through the wood to receive the screws, as one would also do for nails. Now fold the margin over the bracing strings and sew down. The cover may be further secured by the use of a few extra nails or screws along the crossbars. No more than two or three should be used, as too many will tend to weaken the crossbars. The result should be an evenly stretched, firmly secured and well-balanced sail.

The next stage is to complete the triangular shape. Two cloth bands, as at I (Fig. 17) are needed. Cut two pieces, 223/4 in. in length and 9 in. in width. Fold over 1/2 in. of the material all round, make a crease at the folds and sew down to make a hem. Now make a sharp crease along the centre of the bands, going across the width of the material. Fasten the bands at these creases to the third longeron, so that one edge of this fits into the creases. Secure the longeron in this position with glue, and a nail or screw at each end of the bands. Now attach the free ends of the bands to the ends of the longerons D and E. Use glue, and for preference 1/4 in. fine brass screws with washers. About four will be needed for each end of the covers. Instead of washers one may use thin tin strips which are 8 in. in length and 1/4 in. in width.

Take the two upright struts, G and H, and insert them between the top longeron and the crossbars. They must be a good fit, otherwise the cloth bands will be too slack. They are 97/8 in. in length, as has been previously stated, but it is a good thing to cut them slightly oversize, so that they can be trimmed to the length required, which may vary from the one given. As these struts are subjected to considerable strain in flight, they must be reinforced with small glued blocks, fixed in the position shown at J (Fig. 17). Both struts will need six blocks, 1 in. x 1/4 in. square.

The bridle is made from stout string, 6 ft. in length. Tie it in the form of a loop to the top longeron, 4 in. from each end. In order to do this, the bands must be pierced, and they will need strengthening at these points with strips of material, glued in place. The kite line is attached to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot, see Chapter 7, under 'Knots', for details of these. These kites do not need a tail, and balance is improved by the correct position of the line on the bridle which is found by experiment whilst flying the kite. When this has been found, the kite will climb and soar in a most satisfactory manner.

The Wing Kite

Robust construction and pleasing design are combined in the wing kite. Because it carries a comparatively large area of framework, which results in increased weight, it may be found to fly best in a fresh to strong wind. However, in practised hands this kite proves to be quite versatile in flight.

Begin by forming the main framework. Cut four crossbars for the wings, A, B, C, and D. Each measures 2 ft. 6 in. in length. Use 1/4 in. square stripwood. Make grooves in each end. Cut two longerons from 3/8 in. sq. stripwood, 2 ft. 8 in. in length, which are also grooved at the ends. See E and F (Fig. 18). The longerons are glued and nailed to the crossbars at the positions shown in Fig. 18. Use 3/4 in. fretwork nails. Bend the ends over and hammer them flat. Part drill through the wood to receive the nails and put a spot of oil in the holes. Add eight wooden blocks in the positions indicated. They are cut from 1/4 in. square stripwood and are I in in length. Fix them with glue and nails. A third longeron, G, and four upright struts, H, I, J, and K, are made at this stage, but are assembled later on; 1/4 in. square stripwood is used. The longeron is 2 ft. 8 in. in length and is not grooved at the ends. The struts measure 97/8 in. and at one end are cut in a V shape, which is 1/8 in. in depth. Smooth all parts thoroughly with fine sandpaper. Apply a coat of clear varnish and set aside to dry.

Following this, the framework is braced with thin strong string. Make a start by binding it round and tying it to the right-hand end of the top crossbar, leaving a 4 in. free length beyond the knot. From there take it round the ends of the framework, by means of the grooves provided. Return to where you started and knot the ends together securely. As a safeguard against possible distortion of the framework whilst this work is being done, use the following device. Take two 2 ft. 6 in. lengths of stripwood and bind them near the ends of the crossbars. These are removed when the bracing is completed. Glue strips of material over the ends of the framework to keep the bracing in place

Cover the framework with cambric or fine calico to make the wings. Two pieces are needed, measuring 2 ft. 7 in. in length and 11 in in width. This allows for 1/2 in. margin all round. Fold the margin over, iron it flat and sew down to make a hem. If desired the pieces may now be decorated. See Chapter 7, * Accessories', for suggested designs. Secure these pieces to the crossbars. Use glue and 1/4 in. round-headed fine brass screws with small washers. The cloth should be stretched as tightly as possible, but do not bend the crossbars. Use temporary stripwood supports, and insert between the ends of the crossbars, to keep them in shape.

Complete the triangular part of the kite. Make first the two cloth bands, of which only one, M, is shown (Fig. 18). They are of the same material as the wings and measure 231/2 in. in length and 11 in. in width, this providing for a 1/2 in. margin which forms a hem all round as described above. Any decoration should now be added. Form a crease at the centre of each to show where to glue and nail the third longeron, G. The bands are fitted 1 in. from each end of this. Attach the bands to the other longerons with glue and 1/4 in. screws and washers.

Fig. 18. Wing

The next step is to insert the upright struts. They are glued and nailed to the centre of the crossbars and to the top longeron. They must keep the bands as taut as possible without distorting the framework. Cut them oversize and then trim them to ensure a good fit. Strengthen the two end struts with small glued blocks, cut from 1/4 in. square stripwood. Two will be required for each strut.

A 5 ft. 6 in. length of strong string is used for the bridle. It is tied to the top longeron in the form of a loop. In order to do this, pierce the cloth bands, 5 in. from each end, and reinforce them at these points with strips of glued material.

The kite string is attached to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot. See Chapter 7, under 'Knots', for details of these.

As an additional decoration, paper fringes may be glued to the bracing between the wings.

The Box Kite

This is probably the best known and most popular of all kites. It is an excellent flyer, and is made to withstand rough weather. No difficulty will be met with in constructing one, if the instructions are followed carefully.

The four corner pieces, called longerons, A, B, C, D, are formed from stripwood, or other wood which can be cut to size. They are 3/8 in. square and 3 ft. 6 in. in length, and should be straight, smooth and free from knots. It is advisable to give them a coat of clear varnish, and then put on one side to dry.

To make hems, fold over 1/2 all round edges Fig. 19. Box

The four diagonal struts are approximately 2 ft. 1 in. in length, E and F. They can be made from either 1/4 in. x 1/2 in. stripwood, or plywood. These, too, should be varnished. They are cut somewhat longer than the actual measurement. When the kite is being assembled, they can be trimmed to give a really tight fit. This will ensure something which is really essential—firm cloth bands.

Two cloth bands are required, of which one, G, is shown in Fig. 19. In the illustration, the front band has been removed, so that details of the framework may be seen more clearly. The bands are made from lightweight material, which at the same time must be strong. Cambric or fine calico is recommended. Each measures 6 ft. 1 in. in length and 1 ft. 1 in. in width. Form a hem along the two long sides, for which 1/2 in. turning has been allowed. Sew the two long sides first. Then make a \ in. turn along the two short ends, and oversew together. You have now two endless bands, each measuring 6 ft. x 1 ft. They should be free from wrinkles (see Fig. 19, H).

The next stage is to lay them flat on the table, and with a hot iron, smooth them out, making creases at the folds. Fold them over again, and repeat the action with the iron. The bands will now have four creases, at intervals of 18 in. These indicate the position of the longerons. Place the first longeron along the crease made at the oversewn ends of the band. Fasten together with 3/8 in. fine brass screws. Repeat the process with the other longerons, one edge of each fitting snugly into the crease provided. Care must be taken in assembling the bands. Do not wrinkle or tear the material.

Now take one of the diagonal struts. Mark the exact centre. Drill through with a 1/8 in. diameter bit. Place this strut on top of a second, and join them together with a fine-gauge screw. The diameter of the hole is slightly larger than that of the screw, to enable the two struts to open and close freely. Care is needed to avoid splitting the wood. To help prevent this, apply a little light machine oil at the spots where the drilling and screwing take place. The ends of the struts are cut V-shaped, as shown at I (Fig. 19), and are bound round with strong thread, to prevent splitting, when the kite is assembled. Apply a little glue where you bind the strut. This will keep the thread permanently in position.

The best method of inserting the struts is as follows. Get someone to open the kite out, stand it on end, and hold it squarely in place. This will enable you to slide the struts down until they are 5 in. from the ends of the longerons. As the struts were cut slightly oversize, it might be necessary to trim the ends. The thing to aim at is, that when the struts are fixed they will be bowed a little. This will exert maximum pressure on the longerons, and so keep the bands really taut. To prevent the struts slipping out of position, secure small L-shaped blocks to the longerons. Use glue and one fine panel pin for each block (see Fig. 19, J).

The bridle is fastened to one of the longerons in the form of a loop, K. It is 6 in. from either end. Use really strong string. A piece 7 ft. 6 in. in length will be required. In attaching the bridle it is necessary to pierce the bands. In order to strengthen them at these points, glue strips of material to the bands, thus providing a double thickness. The stiffening supplied by the glued strip will prevent tears and fraying.

The kite line is attached to the bridle by means of a reef knot and a bowline knot. The method of tying these is shown in Fig. 19, L. In this way the kite line can be adjusted on the bridle, to suit varying weather conditions. Generally speaking, such adjustments mean that the lighter the wind, the shorter the front line of the bridle will be. In a very strong wind, it might be necessary to tie the kite line directly to the longeron, just behind the front band. This would be at the point marked X. It must be emphasized that a really strong kite line is needed. It must be capable of withstanding considerable strain. Do not be tempted to use string of inferior quality. The price usually paid for this is a lost kite.

The appearance of the kite is enhanced if the wooden framework is enamelled in suitable colours. In addition, designs could be painted on the bands. Students' oil colours may be used. A choice of designs is given in Chapter 7. This work would have to be done, of course, before the kite was assembled.

Smiling Face

This kite is formed after the pattern of the Pegtop kite and if made properly should prove to be a good flyer.

The backbone, A, is formed from 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. stripwood and it is 3 ft. in length and grooved at the bottom end. It should be straight and free from knots and cracks. The crossbar, B, is formed from 1/4 in. square stripwood and is 2 ft. in length. This is joined to the backbone 9 in. from the top, by means of glue and fine string.

The bow, C, requires split cane, about 1/4 in. thick, which is about 2 ft. 9 in. in length. This is curved to the shape shown (Fig. 20). The shaping is made easier if the cane is subjected to dry heat, such as a gas jet or an electric fire. The bow shape is retained by means of a string which is bound securely to the ends of the cane.

Bind the centre of the bow to the top of the backbone, and the ends of the bow to the ends of the crossbar. Now take a strong bracing string from one end of the bow, pass it over the bottom end of the backbone, and then up to the other end of the bow.

The cover is made from cambric or very fine calico. The method of preparing is as follows. First draw a grid of 4 in. squares on a sheet of paper and then copy on to it the face shown in Fig. 20. Next, pin the cover material to a board and transfer the face to it by means of carbon paper. Hold the paper pattern down with cellulose tape or drawing pins while this is being done. Then paint the face with fabric painting oil colours. When these have dried, cut out the shape, allowing a margin of 11/2 in. all round.

The cover is fitted by folding the margin over the curved cane and the bracing string and sewing down. Keep it as well stretched as possible.

 The bridle is attached in the form of a loop. Use strong string about 7 ft. in length and tie it at points which are 9 in. from the bottom and 31/2 in. from the top of the backbone. The cover must be pierced to do this. Glue cloth washers around the holes to strengthen the material at these points. Attach the kite line to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot. A tail about 7 ft. in length is fitted. Tie the tail papers about 9 in. apart from one another.

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