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Chapter 4

Festoon: Happy Man: Small Fish

The Festoon Kite

This kite looks very attractive in flight, and is one which is well worth making. It is a combined kite, that is, two kites arranged on one backbone. It has a comparatively slender framework and needs to be handled with care.

The backbone, A, is 3 ft. 6 in. in length, and is cut from 3/8 in. square stripwood. Make halving joints, 6 in. from the top and 1 ft. 6 in. from the bottom (see Fig. 10). Make shallow grooves at points which are £ in. and 3 in. from each end and also one at the centre.

Two crossbars, B and C, are each 2 ft. in length, and are cut from 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. stripwood. Complete the halving joints at the centre of these, and also make shallow grooves at points which are 3 in. and again 1/2 in. from each end. Rub the frame pieces to a smooth finish with fine sandpaper, and check that the joints are a tight fit.

Assemble the framework with glue. Strengthen the joints by gluing cross-shaped plates to the underside. These are formed from 1/8 in. plywood. They are 6 in. in length and 6 in. in width (see Fig. 10). Bind round the plates and the joints with fine string, and smear the binding with thin glue to hold it in place.

Brace the framework with thin strong string. Tie a length to the backbone at the point D, and take it to the groove E, which is 3 in. from the right-hand end of the top crossbar, pass it round once or twice and tie. Bring the string to the centre backbone groove, bind round and tie. From there take it to the groove which is 3 in. from the left-hand end of the top crossbar, and lastly to the point where you started, where the string is securely tied. Repeat the procedure for the lower half of the framework. The outer bracing strings are now added, being secured at the grooves which are at the ends of the frame pieces. There should be an even tension on all these strings, and the backbone and crossbars should be at a correct angle.

The next step is to prepare the covers. Cambric or unbleached greaseproof paper may be used. Lay the framework on the material and draw the shapes with a soft-grade pencil, allowing a margin of 2 in. all round for overlapping. It is a help to pin the material to a board whilst this is being done. The covers may be decorated at this stage. Suggested designs are given in Chapter 7, under 'Accessories'. Use fabric painting oil colours for cloth, and lacquer for paper covers. Allow sufficient time for the paint to dry and then cut out.

Fig. 10. Festoon

Attach the covers to the backbone and crossbars with glue. Fold the margins over the inner bracing strings and fasten down. Use glue for paper, and sew down in the case of cloth covers. The covers should be as firm and smooth as possible. Turn the framework over. Prepare 2 in. strips of the material and glue them to the covers and around the framework within the area required.

Decorate the kite with festoons. To do this, tie lengths of strong thread in the form of three loops, at the points shown. Take strips of paper 2 in. in width and 6 in. in length, fold them down the centre, and cut slits at intervals in the centre fold. Now cut the strips in fingers to make the fringes. Open the strips, apply glue down the centre and wrap around the loops. Cover the outer bracing string for the top kite with fringes. A paper tassel on a 1 ft. length of thread is suspended from the bottom of the backbone. A pennant may also be flown from the top of the backbone. See Accessories', Chapter 7, for making these.

The bridle is tied to the backbone in the form of a loop at the positions shown (Fig. 10). Use strong string, 6 ft. in length. The kite line is attached to the bridle with a bowline knot and a reef knot. Apply strips of insulating tape to the ends of the framework, to prevent their splitting, should the kite hit the ground suddenly.

Like other kites, this one will need adjustments of the kite line in order to achieve satisfactory flight. Apart from regulating the position of this line, other adjustments may take the form of lengthening the tassel string, or sometimes using a thicker string. The increase of weight thus obtained will tend to pull the bottom of the kite down. This action will bring the kite nearer to the vertical, if the flying angle is too shallow, that is, if the kite is-inclined too much towards the horizontal. When a kite assumes a shallow angle it will not climb. If on the other hand, the tail is too heavy, the kite will assume a near vertical position, and by reason of this will tend to be blown backwards by the wind meanwhile gradually losing height. It is essential that the correct flying angle be established, and this is achieved mainly by observation and adjustment.

The Happy Man Kite

Kites are made in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are conventional, such as the box and the pegtop; others are more original, and to this class the Happy Man Kite belongs. It is a humorous novelty and will cause some amusement when it is flying in the air. A novel feature is the imitation ladder, which takes the place of a conventional tail. The little man has indeed climbed to the top, hence his smile of achievement. Much of the appeal of the kite depends upon the making of the figure. To simplify this, a pattern for enlarging is given (Fig. 11).

Though the kite is unusual in form, the principle of sound design and structure have been kept in mind. First, there is a broad cover area for buoyancy. Secondly, the kite is bowed in the interests of dihedral, which improves stability. Thirdly, the ladder-tail is more than a novelty; it improves stability, by helping to keep the kite on the right course.

Begin by making the framework. The backbone, A, is cut from 3/8 in. square stripwood, which must be straight and free from blemish. It is 3 ft. in length, and is grooved slightly at the ends. The positions for the crossbars are marked on it. Measuring from the top in each case, these positions are: one, 51/2 in.; two, 1 ft. 31/2 in.; three, 1 ft. 81/2 in., and four, 2 ft. 61/2 in.

Now prepare the crossbars B, C, D, and E. All are formed from split cane, about 1/4 in. thick. They are grooved at the ends. B and D are 2 ft. 1 in. in length; and C and E are 1 ft. 1 in. Drill small holes through, 1/2 in. from the ends. Next, form them into a bow shape. Bend them into shape by firm but gentle pressure of the hands. The application of dry heat in the form of a gas jet or electric fire may also be helpful in conditioning the cane for bending. The curved shapes are retained by means of bowstrings which are threaded through the holes provided, and tied securely. Draw the bowstrings taut in order to achieve a proper tension on the canes. Leave a 5 in. tail to one of the bowstrings at F. The depth of the curve at the centre of B and D is 21/2 in.; and there is a proportionate depth for C and E. This depth is achieved by bending C and E until their curves match B and D.

Fig. 11. Happy man

Secure the crossbars to the backbone at the places, which are marked. Glue small blocks to the backbone on either side of the bars, to help to keep them in the right position. Glue and bind the crossbars to the backbone. Smear the bindings with thin glue to reinforce them. Note that the bowstrings lie clear of the backbone on the underside of the framework (Fig. 12).

Use thin string for the outline bracing. Tie a length to the bowstring tail marked F. Take it over the crossbar B; over the top of the backbone, and to the other end of C. Bind round and tie. Proceed by taking the string to the other ends of the framework, and bind round once or twice in each case. Finish by tying to the bowstring tail where you started. Check that the bracing string is taut and that the crossbars are level.

Use lightweight cotton material, such as cambric, for the cover. A square yard will be sufficient. Fasten it to a board with drawing pins. Now take a sheet of paper and mark on it a pattern of 5 in. squares. On this, enlarge the figure which is illustrated in Fig. 11. Allow for a margin of 2 in. all round. The sides of the feet, the arms, ears and top of the head are drawn separately and are attached by the overlaps indicated by the dotted lines.

Fig. 12. Happy man

Pin the paper pattern on the cloth and by means of carbon paper transfer the drawing to the cloth. When this has been done, paint the figure in suitable colours, using fabric painting oil colours. Allow sufficient time for the paint to dry, and then cut out, not forgetting to include the margin.

Fasten the cover to the crossbars with glue. Fold the margin over the bracing strings and sew down. See that the cover is evenly stretched and neatly secured. Next, take the separate parts, such as the arms and ears, and glue them on to thin cardboard for stiffening. Attach them with glue at the positions shown by the dotted lines.

The bridle string is tied in the form of a loop at the points marked X in Fig. 12. Strong string, 6 ft. in length will be needed. Pierce the cover in the appropriate places, and thread the string through. Glue small cloth washers to the cover where it is pierced, to prevent the material fraying. The kite line is attached to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot.

Two ladder strings, 6 ft. in length, are tied to the small bar which is glued and nailed to the bottom of the backbone. This 1/4 in. square stripwood bar is 5 in. in length, and the strings are placed 4 in. apart. The rungs are made from strips of cardboard, and are 5 in. in length. At the ends of these make slits, and insert the strings. Space the rungs about 6 in. apart. A little practice will soon indicate the correct number to carry for a flight, for which reason they are made to be removed or replaced easily.

The kite is fairly large in size, and develops quite a strong pull in a wind. The bridle and the line must be adequate to meet the strain which is imposed. The young reader is advised not to allow such a kite to attain too great a height or fly it in too strong a wind.

The Small Fish Kite

Here is a kite of unusual design, which looks very attractive in flight. The time and care needed in the construction will be amply repaid by its performance. Being a multi-frame type, it is important to maintain the correct proportions of every part.

The first stage is to make the framework. The backbone A, in 1/4 in. square stripwood, is 1 ft. 6 in. in length. The crossbars, B, C, and D are formed from thin split cane. B is 1 ft. 3 in. in length, and C and D are 1 ft. Groove them at the ends. The crossbars must now be formed in a bow shape. This is achieved by applying dry heat to the bars whilst the shaping is being done. The curve is retained by means of bowstrings, tied to each end of the bars. The depth of the curve for the largest crossbar is 11/2 in. at the centre, and the curves on the other two must correspond to this.

Check that this is so by laying the smaller bars in turn on the larger one. The curves on all the canes should match.

Fix the crossbars to the backbone. The larger one is lashed to the centre of the backbone. The two smaller ones are attached at points 3 in. from the top and the bottom of the backbone. Glue 1/2 in. blocks of stripwood to the latter on either side of the crossbars, to help to hold them in place. Smear the binding string with glue to stiffen it, and treat all further bindings in the same way.

Centre cane, such as is used in basketry and cane furniture, is used for the shaped framework, because it is easy to form in sharp curves. Use cane which is 3 mm. in diameter, and before shaping it, soak it in water for an hour. The outer curve, E, requires a piece which is 4 ft. in length. Lash it at its centre to a point which is near to the top of the backbone. Glue a small strip-wood block to the backbone just below and touching the joint, which will act as a buffer for the cane. Cover the joint with a glued strip of cloth, and treat all the ends of the framework in the same way, as shown in Fig. 13.

Now with a pencil mark a position which is 21/4 in. from each end of the centre crossbar. Glue small blocks to the bar, on the inside of the pencil marks. Bend the cane round, so that it rests against the blocks, and lash it securely in place. Next, bring the cane down to a position which is 3 in. from each end of the bottom crossbar, and tie securely. Complete the shaping by bringing the cane to the bottom of the backbone, bind round and tie. In order to make a neat bottom joint, score the cane with a sharp knife, 1/2 in. from its ends, and with the knife, shave the ends of the cane flat to a length of 1/2 in. The ends will now quite easily bend to a sharp angle, to fit flush with the backbone (see Fig. 13). Now secure the cane to the top crossbar with strong thread.

Next mark on the backbone a position which is 31/2 in. from the top. Place the ruler on this position so that it lies across the framework, parallel to the crossbars, and mark corresponding positions on the outer curved cane. These marks indicate where the inner curves, F and G, are fixed. The two canes required for this measure 2 ft. in length. Flatten the ends of these to a length of 1/2 in. with a sharp knife and flatten slightly the curved cane, E, on the inside by the pencil marks. Begin the shaping with the cane, F. Glue and bind one end to the outer curve, E. Bring the cane in a curve across the backbone at the point which is marked off in pencil. Flatten the cane slightly where it rests on the backbone. Glue it down and further hold it in place with one or two turns of thread. Glue small blocks to the backbone on each side of the cane. Now bring the other cane, G, to the same position and lash the two canes securely to the backbone with strong thread.

Take the cane, F, in a continuing curve to a point on the centre crossbar, which is 1 in. from the backbone. Place a small block under the cane at  this point. The end of the cane is brought to the right-hand end of the bottom crossbar, to which it is securely bound. Repeat the procedure for the other cane. Note that where this cane crosses the centre crossbar, a small block is inserted to fill the gap.

Fig. 13. Small fish

Two other curved parts, H and I, are needed to complete the framework. They are each 10 in. in length and are flattened at both their ends. Bind them to the outer curve, 2 in. below the centre crossbar, and also to the backbone, 2 in. from the bottom. Check all the joints to make sure they are firm, and make sure that all the curves correspond on each side of the backbone.

The framework is now ready to be braced. Tie a length of fine string to the end of the top crossbar. Take it over the end of the centre bar, and tie at the joint below it. Repeat the procedure for the other side. Next tie a length of string to the end of the bottom crossbar and tie to the backbone where the inner canes are joined. From there, take it to the other end of the crossbar, and tie. Make the bracing strings taut.

At this stage, prepare the cover. Lay the framework on a sheet of unbleached greaseproof paper, and draw the shape as at J. Add a margin of 1 in. all round for overlapping and cut out. It is a matter of choice whether or not the small curved centre-piece is cut out. Slit the margin at intervals to make the work of wrapping it round the framework easier.

The cover may now be decorated. Eyes, scales, and fin marks may be painted in blue on a background of aluminium paint. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly and then glue the cover to the framework and bracing strings.

The bridle is formed of thin strong string, which is 3 ft. 6 in. in length. Secure it to the backbone in the form of a loop at the positions shown at K (Fig. 13). The kite line is attached to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot. See 'Knots' in
Chapter 7.

This kite requires a tail which is 4 ft. 6 in. in length. Small fish, 5 in. long by 21/2 in. wide, cut from thin cardboard and having four small holes punched down the centre, are used for the tail pieces. They are spaced 5 in. or 6 in. apart, and are threaded on to the string by means of the holes. Tie a bow at the bottom of the string. The tail fish match the general colour scheme, for example, one blue, the next aluminium and so on.

J and K (Fig. 13) show additional decoration to the kite. This is in the form of strips of paper attached to strings, which are fastened to the top curve of E, and to the top curves of F and G.

A large fish kite may be made by doubling all the measurements given. In this case | in. square stripwood and 5 mm. centre cane would be used, and stronger string would be needed for the bridle and kite line. One could also use lightweight cloth instead of paper for the cover.

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