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Chapter 3

Star: Three-T: Forktop

The Star Kite

This pretty kite possesses two interesting features. One is that there is a centre piece of metal foil, which reflects the light; this is an effective decorative device. The other feature is that the kite is equipped with balancing cups, to assist its flight. The cups help to produce up-currents of air which give lift to the kite. Consequently, it should do well in a light breeze. Being designed for gentle weather, the kite is lightly constructed. The framework is comparatively slender. The kite must be handled with care.

As will be seen in Fig. 7, it is formed with a double frame—a diamond and a cross shape. The frame, A, is made first. Use 1/4 in. x 3/16 in. stripwood. Cut four pieces, each 1 ft. 5 in. in length. Assemble them in the shape of a square, by means of mitre joints. Small corner pieces, cut from 1/8 in. plywood to the shape of a triangle are fixed to the underside of the joints with glue and fine fretwork nails. An alternative method of joining the frame is also shown (B, Fig. 7). In this method, two of the strips measure 1 ft. 41/2 in. Secure these joints also with glue and fine fretwork nails. Drill holes to receive the nails part-way through the wood, so that it will not split. Make the joints as firm as possible, in view of the fact that this is the main frame.

The cross-shaped frame C (Fig. 7) requires three pieces 1/4 in. x 3/16 in. stripwood, D and E. Cut D, 2 ft. in length, groove the ends, and drill a small hole through, 1/2 in. from the bottom end. Fix this to the underside of the frame A, in the position shown, with glue and two 3/4 in. fretwork nails, the ends of which are turned over and hammered flat. This strut divides the frame, A, into two equal parts.

You will need next a centre-piece, F, which is cut from 1/8 in. plywood and is 2 in. square. Glue and nail it to the underside centre of the strut D. Use 5/8 in. fretwork nails, bent over and flattened at the ends. To this centre-piece and to the frame, A, glue and nail the two short cross-struts, E. Each measures 117/8 in and is notched at the outer end. The idea of using two short pieces, is that they fit flush with the frame, A, which would not be possible with a long through strut.

The bracing string, G, is added next. Thin strong string, knotted at one end is used. Thread it through the hole at the end of D (Fig. 7). Pass it in turn over the ends of the cross-struts. Bring it back to where you started. Bind it round the strut end once or twice and tie at the first knot. Strips of insulating tape neatly applied, will hold the string in place in their grooves. Apply tape also where the string crosses the main frame A. Keep the string taut, but do not pull the framework out of shape. Note that the bracing lies on the underside of the frame A.

The inner strings, G and H, come on the top side of the framework. They go from corner to corner. As these are difficult tying places, a special method is used. Loops of string are made at the corners. To them the bracing string is attached by means of another loop (see Fig. 7). It will be realized that on the actual kite, these loops are drawn up and fastened securely.

 The bridle is of string which is stouter than that used for the bracing. Four pieces are needed. Two are 1 ft. 9 in., and two, 2 ft. 11 in. in length. The tying points on the framework are indicated by asterisks. These points have been chosen to improve the stability of the kite and also because they represent the strongest parts of the framework and so are the obvious points to take up the strain in flying the kite. The shorter strings are fastened at the top points. The method of securing the strings to the framework is shown in detail at I (Fig. 7). J (Fig. 7) shows actual length of bridle strings when they are tied.

Next cover the framework with unbleached greaseproof paper. First attend to the small triangles formed by the ends of the cross-struts and the bracing. Cut four pieces, measuring 8 in. at the base and 41/4 in. high, narrowing to a point. Glue these to the top sides of A; also to the cross-struts, and wrap over the strings. The main cover is 1 ft. 51/2 in. square and is glued to the sides of A. Turn the kite over and glue strips of paper to the underside, over the strings G and H.

The result should be a secure, well-stretched cover, and with this type of kite, this should not be difficult to achieve, as the framework is all on one level, and is not bowed.

There are several ways in which the kite can be decorated, according to preference. A simple and pleasing way is shown in Fig. 7. Broad bands of bright colours are used. A square of metal foil previously mentioned, silver or gold, is glued at the centre. This will shine and flash in the light. It will be easier to do the decorating before the cover is fixed in place.

A feature of this kite is its use of three balancing cups, 3 in. in diameter, attached to the lower ends of the framework. They are described in detail in the section on 'Accessories' and are decorative as well as serving a useful purpose.

The strings which hold these are about 6 in. in length after they have been tied in place, and before the cover is added. Alternatively, paper tassels may be used. Details for making both of these are given in Chapter 7 in 'Accessories'.

Tie the kite string to the bridle, where it is knotted together. This method does not permit of the line being adjusted on the bridle as is the case with many of the kites described. Such adjustments are made to alter the angle of the kite to the wind. Therefore to keep the kite at a proper flying angle it may be found helpful to fit a tail. The line for this could run through the centre balancing cup, and it would be about 5 ft. in length. This tail could be regarded as additional equipment which could be fixed or removed as required. Therefore it would be tied in such a way that the knot be easily undone.

Again, practice in flying the kite would soon indicate what adjustments should be made in this direction, that is to say whether a tail were needed or not, or whether the tail should be made heavier or lighter by adding or removing some of the paper pieces

As the name implies, this kite is an arrangement of three triangles, which give it a rather unusual look. It is a flat-type form which depends for stability upon a two-piece bridle and a flexible tail. The backbone, A (Fig. 8), is 2 ft. 10 in. in length, and is cut from 3/8 in. square stripwood, which must be straight and smooth. Drill holes 1/2 in. from each end, through which the bracing string is threaded. The ends are also notched, as shown. Two pieces of 3/8 in. square stripwood are used for the crossbars, B and C. The top crossbar, B (Fig. 8) is 2 ft. in length, and the lower one, C (Fig. 8) is 1 ft. 6 in. Drill and notch the ends as in the case of the backbone.

Fig. 8. Three-T

Fix the crossbars to the backbone, B, 3 in. from the top, and C, 6 in. from the bottom. Use glue and strong thread to make firm joints. Glue small blocks to the backbone on each side of the crossbars to help to keep them straight.

The bracing is added next. Begin at the top of the framework and tie a length of thin strong string to the top crossbar, 6 in. from one end. Thread this through the hole in the backbone, and tie to the other side of the crossbar, 6 in. from the end. Next, pass a length through one of the holes in the top crossbar, and tie one end. Take the string to a position on the backbone, which is 61/2 in. from the bottom end. Bind it round the bottom crossbar once or twice, and take it to the other end of the top crossbar, where it is threaded through the hole and tied. Tie a length of string to one end of the bottom crossbar, after passing it through the hole, and tie. Then thread it through the holes in the ends of the backbone and crossbar and tie. A secondary bracing string is run round the edges of the framework, making use of the grooves provided. The bracing should be taut, in order to provide a firm foundation for the covers, and to keep the framework in its proper shape.

The cover is added in three separate pieces. Use unbleached greaseproof paper, or lightweight cotton material such as cambric. Cut pieces for the top triangle, which forms the nose; for the large triangle, which forms the wing, and for the smaller tail-piece. Lay the framework upon the material and mark the shapes. Allow a margin of 1 in. all round and cut out.

At this point the covers may be decorated if desired. Suggestions for designs are given in Chapter 7. Use fabric painting oil colours for cloth, and lacquer for paper. Pin the covers to a board while the decorating is being done, and allow sufficient time for the paints to dry before doing anything else.

Next, glue the nose cover to the top crossbar and round the inner top bracing strings. Add the wing and tail covers in the same way. If cloth covers are used, then the margins are sewn down over the bracing strings. Like paper covers, they would, of course, be glued to the crossbars.

Two pieces of strong string are used to make the bridle. One piece, which is 2 ft. 6 in. in length is tied to the top crossbar, 5 in. from each end. The second piece, which is 3 ft. 3 in. is tied to the bottom backbone joint and then to the centre of the other piece. Attach the kite line to the bottom bridle string by means of a bowline knot, and a reef knot.

The tail which is fixed to the bottom of the backbone is 6 ft. in length. If desired paper fringes may be run round the outer bracing strings. Use strips of paper, 4 in. in width, fold them down the centre, glue them round the strings, and cut in narrow fingers to form the fringe.

The Forktop Kite

This kite is given its name because its backbone is divided into two curved prongs at the top. It has the double advantage of being bow shaped, and possessing a large sail area. The operator will find that it will move in a lively manner. Correct balance and shape are essential for successful flying. These are achieved by paying careful attention to all the constructional details. It is one of the largest kites described in the book, consequently the bridle and kite line must be correspondingly strong.

Fig. 9. Forktop

The backbone, A, is 3 ft. 6 in. in length. Use 3/8 in. square strip-wood, which should be straight and smooth, and free from knots or any other defect. Notch the ends as shown (Fig. 9) and with a fine fretsaw blade saw down from the top end to a depth of 6 in. This makes two prongs, which are bent to a fork shape. First, soak the prongs in water for about an hour. Then bind round the backbone just below the prongs with strong thread. This will prevent the saw cut from developing into a split. Now, gently but firmly prise the prongs apart, and insert a wedge at the top of the opening. Use a piece of stripwood 3/8 in. square x 1 in. Glue and nail it in place, and drill small holes to start the fretwork nails, which are 1/2 in. long.

The crossbar, B, is 3 ft. in length. Use split cane about \ in. thick, or as an alternative, 1/4 in. square stripwood. The ends are grooved and two small holes are drilled through, 1/2 in. from each end. Following this, the crossbar is curved to a bow shape. If cane is used, apply dry heat, for example, a gas jet, whilst bending it. This will stop it splitting. Soaking for a while in water is recommended if stripwood is used. See the section on 'Methods' in Chapter 7.

Details of the shaping are as follows. Take a length of good quality string. Thread it through one of the holes and tie it, leaving a 5 in. tail to the knot. Pass the string over the end of the crossbar and over to the other end, where it is threaded through the second hole. Applying firm pressure, bend the crossbar to a curve. To do this rest one end of it on the floor. Press firmly downwards, at the same time drawing the string taut. Bind the end of this once or twice round the crossbar and tie. The depth of the curve at the centre should be about 3 in. This bowstring has to withstand considerable strain so make sure that it is tough.

The next stage is to attach the crossbar to the backbone, 7 in. from the top. Two small anchor blocks, each measuring 1/4 in. x 3/8 in. x 1 in. are glued to the backbone on either side of the crossbar. The latter is then glued and also lashed in place with thin string. Smear the binding with glue to stiffen it. Treat all subsequent bindings in the same way. It is highly important that the joint be properly made, for upon it depends the firmness of the framework.

The framework is now ready to be braced. Use thin string which is capable of withstanding considerable strain. Tie a length to the bowstring, making use of the 5 in. tail which has been left. Pass it over the top end of the backbone, bind it round the other end of the crossbar and tie securely. Check that the bracing is really taut. Next, tie a length of string to one end of the crossbar, pass it over the bottom end of the backbone, and pass round and tie to the end of the crossbar. The finished bracing should sound a musical note when plucked with the fingers.

If stripwood is used for the crossbar, a reinforcing strip is used, C. This is 1 ft. 5 in. in length and is cut from 1/4 in. square strip-wood. This is placed between two small anchor blocks of the same wood, 1 in. in length, which are glued to the crossbar. The centre of the strip comes over the centre of the backbone. Bind the ends of the strip, and also the blocks, to the crossbar with thin string. A small stripwood bridge, D, is placed between the backbone and the reinforcing strip, and is held in place with glue and a small fretwork nail.

The bridle is attached to the backbone in the form of a loop. Tying points are shown in Fig. 9. Use stout string, 7 ft. in length. A small anchor block is glued underneath the bottom tying point to prevent the bridle from slipping down.

The framework is covered with pure unbleached greaseproof paper, or better still, lightweight cotton material. It may be necessary to join two pieces of the material together to make the cover. Lay the frame upon the material and with a soft grade pencil, mark out the shape allowing a margin of 2 in. all round for overlapping, and cut out. Cut narrow V-shaped slits in the margin.

The cover may be decorated at this stage. A bright bold design looks most effective. Small details are useless. A pleasing design is illustrated in Chapter 7 under the heading 'Accessories'. It is advisable to produce the design on a separate piece of paper if a paper cover is used, and then glue it in place. One of the proprietary brands of lacquer goes well on paper and is easy to apply. If a cloth cover is used, then either a paper pattern may be glued on, as above, or the design may be painted on direct, using fabric painting oil colours.

Apply glue to the backbone and the crossbar and lay the cover in place. If it is a paper cover, apply glue to the outer half of the margin, fold over the bracing strings and fasten down. A cloth cover is sewn down. Note that the cover is divided at the top by the prongs. Glue extra strips of material around these for strengthening.

The kite line is attached to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot. The line is generally located a little way above the centre of gravity. To find this, place the kite by its backbone upon the end of a stick. The point at which the kite balances is the centre of gravity.

A tail is fitted which is about 7 ft. in length. Two tassels may be suspended on strings from the ends of the crossbars. The ends of the framework should be protected by strips of insulating tape.

It may be said, by way of general comment, that this kite is of the traditional style which is a great favourite because of its satisfactory performance. To achieve the latter, however, it may be found necessary to make certain adjustments, such as altering the position of the line on the bridle, or increasing or decreasing the weight of the tail by adding or removing paper pieces.

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