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I. Kites to Make: Making: Flying

Chapter 1

Tonking: Pegtop: Loose Cover

The Tonking Kite

As its name implies, this kite is of eastern origin. It has a very simple structure, about which brief comment may be made. First, it is light in weight, because there is a broad wing or cover area with a minimum of framework. This is known as low wing loading, and it is important if the kite is to be successful in flight. Secondly, the kite is bow shaped. This upward inclination of the wing is known as positive dihedral. It improves stability; and in the third place, this stability is further aided by the use of a two-piece bridle, which provides side-to-side balance. Fourthly, the extended backbone permits the effective bracing of the framework.

The framework is formed by three strips, comprising a backbone, A, and two crossbars, B and C (Fig. 1). The backbone is 2 ft. in length and is cut from 1/4 in. square hard stripwood. It is notched at the ends in the manner shown at D (Fig. 1). This piece should be straight and smooth and fres from knots or splits. The crossbars are each 2 ft. in length, and are made from split cane, about 1/4 in. thick. Failing this, 1/4 in. square stripwood may be used, though it is not so strong or flexible as cane. The crossbars are also notched at the ends (E, Fig. 1). These notches are for the bracing strings, which are added later.

The crossbars are now shaped to a curve. The method of doing this is described in Chapter 7 under the heading 'Shaping Wood and Cane'. The depth of the curve at the centre is 2 in., and the crossbars are held in shape by bowstrings, after the manner of making a bow for archery. The bowstrings should be taut, otherwise the crossbars may spring out of shape.

Secure the crossbars to the backbone, 3 in. from each end. The bowstrings lie clear of the framework on the underside. Use glue and strong thread to make the joints, and make sure that these are really firm and do not move from side to side.

The framework is braced with thin strong string. See the notes on string for kites in Chapter 7 under the heading 'Materials'. Begin by tying the string to the top of the backbone, and pass it in turn round the ends of the framework. Bring it back to the top of the backbone, and tie securely. There should be an even tension on the string, but do not bend any part of the framework to secure this. The backbone must be straight and the crossbars parallel to each other, if the kite is to fly successfully.

Fig. 1. Tonking

Now cover the framework with paper. Tissue paper, pure unbleached greaseproof or pure ribbed kraft may be used. See the notes on paper in Chapter 7, under the heading 'Materials'. Cut the paper to the required shape (F, Fig. 1) this allows a 2 in. margin at the top and bottom for overlapping the crossbars. Cut narrow V-shaped slits at regular intervals along the margins. The cover may now be decorated. Suggested designs are given in Chapter 7, in the section on 'Accessories'.

The cover is secured to the framework with thin glue, the margins overlapping the crossbars. It will be seen that the cover is not an exact oblong, being wider at the ends than in the middle. This means that when it is fixed in place, the middle area will be tightly stretched, and the ends will be rather loose by comparison. This slackness should be equal at both ends.

Take care not to wrinkle the paper. Paper strips, 4 in. in width, are glued over the crossbars and the short sides of the cover, for strengthening.
The bridle (G, Fig. 1) is formed in two parts. The string for the top loop is 2 ft. 6 in. in length. It is tied to the top crossbar, 6 in. from each end. The bottom loop requires a 3 ft. 6 in. length of string. This is tied at the centre of the top loop, and also to the backbone just below the bottom joint. Glue a small block of 1/4 in. stripwood to the backbone, just below this tying point to prevent the bridle from slipping. It will be realized that the cover will have to be pierced when the top loop is being tied. Glue thin cardboard washers to the cover at these places to prevent the paper from tearing in flight.

The kite line is attached to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot. See H (Fig. 1) for an illustration of these. Further notes on knots will be found in Chapter 7, under the heading 'Methods'. These knots will permit the line to be adjusted on the bridle, so as to obtain the best angle for flying the kite. A kite flies at an angle to the wind and the most effective one is found by experiment.

A few optional extras will enhance the appearance of the kite. For example, fringes may be fastened to the top and bottom bracing strings, and a tassel suspended from the bottom of the backbone. Such extras are described in Chapter 7, under the heading * Accessories'.

The Pegtop Kite

The Pegtop is a good choice if one is looking for an easy-to-make kite. The framework is a simple two-piece unit. When this is covered, and a bridle and tail added, the kite is ready for flying. It is not, however, one of the easiest of kites to handle. Technically, this is because it lacks inherent stability. Stability means that if a kite is disturbed from its path of steady flight by, say, a change of wind direction or speed, it will tend to right itself. Inherent stability means that this balance or steadiness is achieved by the design and construction of the kite. We may say then that the pegtop kite tends to be unstable in a changeable wind. This very fact, however, may be an additional reason for making such a kite, and the operator finds much satisfaction in skilfully handling it in flight.

The pegtop may be made in different sizes. The measurements given here could be adapted to suit individual requirements. It must be remembered, though, that the larger the kite, the more skill is needed in flying it successfully. The one described here may be thought of as a small trial size, which will teach the young beginner quite a lot about the art of flying kites.

The backbone A (Fig. 2) is formed from 1/4 in. x 3/8 in. stripwood, 1 ft. 6 in. in length and is notched at the bottom end. It must be straight and smooth. For the curved top use a flexible piece of split cane about 1/4 in. diameter and 1 ft. 4 in. in length, and notch it at the ends. Suitable cane may be obtained from handicraft or horticultural shops. That which has a hard outer skin is the kind which is the best to use. It may be bought in 3 ft. lengths. If they are whole pieces, they can be split with a sharp-pointed knife.

The cane is curved to a bow shape, as shown (B, Fig. 2). The shaping is more easily done if the cane is subjected to dry heat, such as a gas jet or electric fire. This prevents cracking or splitting. The bow is held in position by means of a bowstring, C, tied at each end. Use thin, strong string because it has to withstand considerable strain. The depth of the curve at the centre is 31/2 in.

Secure the cane at its centre to the top of the backbone. Use glue and bind round with strong thread. Apply glue to the binding to prevent it from slipping. Make a neat, firm joint. The strength of the framework depends upon this.

The next stage is to complete the bracing of the framework. Use thin strong string. Tie this to one end of the curved top. From there take it to the bottom of the backbone and up to the other end of the top. This string should not be too taut, as most of the strain is taken up by the bowstring. The framework is now complete, and is ready for covering.

Fig. 2. Pegtop

For the cover use tissue paper or pure unbleached greaseproof! (It is worth while mentioning here, that a larger size in this kind of kite, say 3 ft. or over, would be better with a lightweight cloth cover.) Place the framework on the paper and with a pencil mark out the shape of the cover. Allow a margin of 11/2 in. all round and cut out. At this point the cover may be decorated. Suggested designs are given in 'Accessories' in Chapter 7. These are best done on separate sheets of paper and pasted on to the cover. For colouring, one of the proprietary brands of lacquer is easy to apply, and will answer the purpose well.

Attach the cover to the framework, taking care not to crease or tear the paper. Apply glue to the backbone, and stick the cover to it and set aside for a little while for the glue to dry. Next, cut narrow V-shaped slits at intervals round the margin. Apply glue to the curved top, and to the outer half of the margin. Fold this over and fasten it down around the top and the outer strings. 3 in. folded reinforcing strips may be glued round the strings and the top.

The kite may be embellished with tassels or fringes. If fringes are chosen, then two loops of string are tied to the ends of the bow and the bottom of the backbone. If tassels are chosen, they would hang from the ends of the curved top. Details for making both of these are given in * Accessories'.

The bridle, 3 ft. 6 in. in length, is tied to the backbone at the places shown (Fig. 2) in the form of a loop. Use stout string. In order to attach the bridle, the cover has to be pierced. Strengthen the cover where this is done by means of thin cardboard washers, fastened down with glue.

A conventional tail is tied to the bottom of the backbone. This is a piece of string 4 ft. 6 in. in length to which are fastened 4 in. folded strips of paper 6 in. apart. (See 'Accessories' for further details.) For the kite line use the kind recommended in Chapter 7. It is attached to the bridle by means of a bowline knot and a reef knot. The method of forming the knots is shown in Chapter 7. These permit the line to be adjusted on the bridle, in order to obtain the best position for flying the kite. Generally the kite line is tied a little above the centre of gravity. This centre may be ascertained by balancing the kite by its backbone on a length of thin stripwood, or even the blunt end of a pencil would serve. The point when the kite remains in balance on the stick is the centre of gravity, and this could be marked with a pencil.

A reel is needed on which the kite string is wound. Two types of these are described in 'Accessories'. The size of the reel will depend to a large extent upon the amount and thickness of the string used, but both of the reels referred to are of a convenient size.

Loose Cover Kite

This kite flies on a different principle from most kites. In action it is more like the sail of a boat which billows out in the wind. In effect the action of the sail forms what may be called an anhedral angle, which is reverse in shape to dihedral.

It is a tail-less type, and lacking the measure of steadiness which a tail provides, it can be rather erratic in flight. Nevertheless, its lively manner makes it an interesting kite to fly.

Fig. 3. Loose cover

The framework is of the simplest kind, comprising a backbone and cross-strut (A and B, Fig. 3) which are arranged in the form of a cross. The kite can be made so that the framework will fold up for convenience in transport. Two pieces of 3/8 in. square strip-wood are required. These are 2 ft. 6 in. in length. Notch these pieces at the ends and lash them together with fine string, the cross-strut being 6 in. from the top of the backbone. As this kite may be folded up when required, no glue is used in making the framework joint. Tie the binding string in such a manner that it may readily be removed.

The bracing string is fitted next. Use thin, strong string and take it over the ends of the framework by means of the notches provided. Tie the ends at the bottom of the backbone.

The cover is made of lightweight cotton material, such as cambric. It is cut rather wider than the frame, so that it bellies out like a sail in the wind. Lay the framework on the material with an extra 21/2 in. all round, 1 in. of which forms the overlap, and cut out. When decorating the cover, mark out the design in pencil and colour it with fabric painting oil colours. A simple bold design is most effective, and bright colours should be used.

Note that the design is painted on the front side, where the bridle is tied (Fig. 3).

To attach the cover, sew the 1 in. margin neatly down over the bracing string, but do not fasten it to the framework. In this way the cross-strut may be removed, laid along the backbone, and the cover wrapped round them when the kite is being taken from place to place.

The bridle is formed of strong string which is 5 ft. in length. It is tied in a loop, 4 in. from each end of the backbone. The kite line is attached to the bridle with a bowline knot and a reef knot so that the upper part of the bridle is shorter than the lower part. The exact tying point will be found by experiment, and adjustments to secure this are easily made.

Though this kite does not usually have a tail, it may be a help to fit a short one if the kite behaves too erratically in flight.

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